Why I Don’t Always Jump My Dogs at Full Height Even After They Know the Equipment

There is a question I get a lot, especially from people who have followed my dog training journey online or have been to my classes. Why do I not always jump my own dogs at full height once they know all the equipment? It is a fair question. From the outside, once a dog has the skills to confidently tackle the full agility course, it seems logical to run the course as it will be in competition. But the truth is, what looks like the obvious next step is not always the most thoughtful or productive one.

So let me take you through why I often keep the jump heights lower, what is really happening in those moments, and how this approach helps both the dog and the training in the long run.

It Is Not About Making It Easier, It Is About Making It Smarter

Once a dog has learned how to perform each piece of agility equipment, especially jumps, there is a natural urge to bring everything up to competition height. It is tempting. There is a buzz to seeing your dog fly over a full height jump with confidence. But for me, training has never been about pushing for the high points just because the dog is capable. It is about building something sustainable, thoughtful and reliable, and doing it in a way that keeps the dog’s body and mind in a good place.

Reducing jump height during regular training does not mean I do not think the dog can handle more. It means I am giving them space to work on something else. Things like stride adjustment, jump timing, handling responses, confidence in sequences and decision making. These things matter just as much as jumping high, and working at a lower height gives the dog more room to learn without overloading their body.

Dogs Do Not Always Show When They Are Overloaded

One of the big things people underestimate is how quietly dogs tolerate physical discomfort. Just because a dog can clear a full height jump does not mean it is not taxing. And they will not always show us when it is. Muscle fatigue, sore joints or small tweaks from repetitive landings do not necessarily show up as limps. But they build up. Over time, those small wear and tear moments can turn into bigger problems.

By choosing to reduce the height of jumps in regular sessions, I am helping my dogs avoid that build up. They still get the mental stimulation and skill development from working on sequences and direction cues. But their joints get a break, and their bodies stay fresher for longer. It is the difference between working smart and just going through the motions because that is what the course map says.

Physical Conditioning Is Ongoing, Not Just for the Build Up Phase

People often associate lower jumps with early training or rehab, but I think they are a useful part of every dog’s routine. Full height does not need to be the default. There is huge value in keeping a training session lighter on the body while still being heavy on the skills.

If you think about human athletes, they do not spend every training session performing at maximum output. Runners do not run full race pace every day. Footballers do not play full matches in training. They do targeted work to keep sharp and manage fatigue. The same applies to our dogs. If every training session is treated like a mini competition, the risk of injury goes up. And unlike us, dogs do not get to choose when to say they have had enough.

Jumping High Does Not Teach the Most Important Skills

People sometimes confuse full height with full learning. But the truth is, the bulk of agility skill development does not require full jump height at all. Things like learning to adjust stride, respond to a tight turn, commit to a line or pick up on a change of direction, all of that can and often should be taught at reduced height.

When the dog is not worried about clearing a big height, they can focus on learning. The pressure is lower. Their movement is cleaner. Their attention is more available. And as a trainer, I get to see what they are understanding without worrying that I am stacking physical strain on top of mental effort

Lower Heights Let Me Focus on the Relationship, Not Just the Outcome

One of the most valuable things I get from working with reduced jump heights is the opportunity to watch how my dog is thinking and feeling. When the stakes are lower, the communication between us is clearer. I can see whether they are understanding a cue, whether they are making smart choices, whether they are feeling confident or hesitant.

It becomes less about whether they can get over this jump and more about how they are solving this. That is the information I value most. It is what helps me improve my handling, adapt my cues and build trust. None of that relies on the jump being set at a certain height.

Competition Prep Is Just One Piece of the Puzzle

Of course, when it comes time to prep for a competition, we do raise the jumps. I am not anti height. It is just not something I chase every session. When I am close to a show, I will plan out specific sessions to check full height readiness. I focus on fitness, confidence and performance under pressure. But I do not treat that as the default. It is a targeted phase, not an everyday expectation.

Most of our sessions are spent sharpening skills and developing reliability. And that often happens best at lower jump heights, where everything feels more accessible to the dog and more adaptable for me as a trainer.

Every Dog Is Different and That Matters

Another key part of this approach is recognising that not every dog is built the same. Some are lean and springy types who find full height easier on the body. Others are heavier and more powerful dogs who work hard for every lift and landing. Some are still growing, while others are veterans with a few miles on the clock.

What I set up in a training session takes all of that into account. I am not trying to match an ideal or follow a standard for the sake of it. I am watching the dog in front of me. And if that dog is giving me great focus, understanding and effort at fifty or sixty centimetres, I am not going to push them to sixty five just because a rulebook says that is what is normal.

It Is Not Lazy. It Is Intentional.

There is a perception among some trainers or handlers that keeping jumps low is a bit of a shortcut, or worse, that it means you are not serious. But I think the opposite is true. It takes more thought, more planning and more care to build training that works without relying on maximum height. It is not lazy to think long term. It is not lazy to prioritise your dog’s well being over a short term performance spike.

If anything, it shows you are paying attention. You are looking past the moment and seeing the bigger picture. One where your dog stays healthy, motivated and able to train consistently, month after month, year after year.

When Full Height Is the Right Choice

That said, there are times when full height is exactly what is needed. If I am proofing a skill under pressure, checking for confidence in a tight line or building competition readiness, then yes, we go full height. But it is planned, intentional and supported by physical conditioning. It is never just thrown into the mix because I feel like pushing harder that day.

Full height is not bad. It is just one of many tools. And like any tool, it works best when you use it with purpose.

The Bottom Line: Training Should Support the Dog, Not Just the Sport

At the end of the day, my dogs are not machines. They are animals I care deeply about. Not in an over sentimental way, but in a way that makes me want to do right by them. That means making training decisions based on what they need, not what makes me look polished or competitive.

So yes, you will often see me working jumps lower than standard. Not because the dog is not capable, but because I believe in teaching for clarity, preserving the body for longevity and building a strong foundation that lasts longer than any weekend ribbon.

It is not flashy. But it works.

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